There are a few interesting differences between the way English banks and American banks seem to function on a day-to-day level. I have been trying to decide which is best, but I have come to the conclusion that ultimately each has its good and bad points.

Overdrafts

In America, it seems to be quite unusual to have an ‘agreed overdraft limit’. Rather, a checking (current) account holder can have ‘overdraft insurance’, which seems to cover  short-term budgeting errors.

Overdrafts are abused in England; some people take them as extensions of their paycheck and routinely ‘live in their overdrafts’, to the point that a paycheck merely takes them back to £0, before they start downwards into it again. Some don’t even make it back that far up the ladder month to month.

Banks love this of course. The interest charged can be as high as 30-odd percent, or in the case of the HBOS group, £1 per day in lieu of interest. Add that up over the course of a year or more and that is serious money being thrown down the drain for what is nothing more than dreadful money management skills.

My agreed overdraft is £1,500, and the first £250 of that is interest free. I haven’t entered it since January, but it is handy buffer for budgeting errors. The £250 interest free part comes with the account that I have, but the additional £1,250 beyond that just grew over the years with my account; Every once in a while they would push it a little further. It seems to have finally settled at the figure it is on.

Peculiar to my bank there is also a facility beyond the arranged overdraft called ‘Personal Reserve‘. It’s a £500 overdraft after your overdraft. Horrible little thing, it costs £22 per day to go in it, but I suspect if you need it, then it is handy to have.

ATMs

Another thing I find peculiar about the American banking system is fees for using different banks’ ATMs. I have never been charged anywhere in the UK for using an ATM that didn’t belong to my bank – beyond those convenience stand-alone ATMs you find in small shops.

This could just be scale. The UK ‘grew up’ as one large piece of infrastructure, whereas America has been hacked together by different institutions in different states at different times. Or is it just one further method of extracting money from the unwary consumer?

Cheques

I have written precisely 1 cheque in the last 5 years – no kidding! Cheques are pretty much extinct here in the UK. Shops have all but stopped accepting them as a form of payment. Yet I have never heard of a personal banking customer in the UK being charged for cheques -  this seems ‘the norm’ in the US? Companies such as Checks In the Mail even seem to print cute designs on them.

Online Billpay

Various blogs extol the virtues of using this system, and if you’ve only had doing the cheques yourself as prior experience, then I can understand. But it seems lightyears away from our Direct Debit system. If the company you are paying isn’t wired into the bank, the bank physically print and mail the cheque? Amazing.

Direct Debit while appearing insecure on the outside, is actually quite brilliant. Take my credit card as an example:

When I got it, I ticked the box on the online account to set up the direct debit. I punched in my bank account and sort code, and set to pay £120 a month. Just this month, it’s now set to “pay in full”.  I could equally set it to “pay the minimum” or somewhere in between. The billing party then submits a Direct Debit request through the banking network, and my bank sends – electronically – the amount requested.

If anywhere along the line there is a screw-up, the Direct Debit Guarantee immediately resets the transaction. I can cancel the Direct Debit authorisation at any time from my Online Banking menu, and ultimately, it’s a stroke of genius.

About the only thing you cannot set up a Direct Debit for in England is your groceries.

Fees

It seems there are banking fees abound in America – even if you run your account right. A fee for even just having a checking account. A fee for checks. A fee for a debit card. A fee if you go over a certain number of transactions. A fee if you have less than a certain amount in your account. A fee for this, that and the other.

I am shocked by this. About the only fee I have paid in the last 10 years for banking has been the odd bit of interest for going into my overdraft here and there. I’ve never paid for cheque books, debit cards, the account itself or anything else.

Perhaps I am just viewing the UK system with rose-tinted spectacles, or the US system isn’t nearly as bad as some blogs make out. Or, perhaps, I’m spot on; in which case, for once, I am glad to live in the UK!

I’m sure at least one of my American readers will set me right soon enough if I have got it wrong.

My friends have so far looked at me sideways when I have explained that I plan on moving my money around every year, chasing the very best savings rates. They consider doing so an extreme waste of time as “the banks only screw you over anyway” and that a few percentage points make zero difference.

A few percentage points make ALL the difference. For a little bit of effort (generally about 2 hours a year), you can earn hundreds or thousands of pounds worth of extra interest, than if you left your money in the same place on an institutions Standard Variable savings account.

Don’t believe me? Let me show you. For the sake of argument, let us say I have £10,000 to save, and I am looking to put it in an account somewhere and let it build over time.

My Barclays Tracker Saver account pays 0.10% interest on balances over £50. It calculates daily and compounds monthly. After 12 months in those conditions, my savings would have grown by just £10. The bank has paid me just £10 to lend them my £10,000 for the entire year.

Daylight robbery.

Let’s open a new account with ING Direct instead. At the time of writing, they are guaranteeing new customers 3.20% under similar conditions otherwise to barclays, i.e. compounding monthly. For my £10,000 they will pay me £324.74 in interest. That is much better. But now my introductory offer has expired, I’ve dropped onto their Standard Variable saving rate of 0.50%. If I don’t move my money, how will it fair next year?

If I am lazy (and the bank hopes so), next year they will pay me just £51.74 in interest.

More than 6 times less than they paid last year.

Instead, when my introductory offer ran out with ING I moved my money to another introductory offer paying (for the sake of argument) 4%. Remember I have £10,324.74 to move courtesy of the 3.2% interest from ING last year, so I move that sum to a new Halifax account.

12 months later I now have £10,745.39. And after another move the next year that paid 4.5%, I have £11,239.03!

In 3 years the amount of savings I had has grown by £1,239.03 because of 2 hours work opening a new account and closing an old one each year. By the time you’ve run out of places to consider opening an account as a new customer, ING Direct have forgotten about you and you qualify as a new customer again.

If I had not chased the good rates and left it languishing in my original Barclays account, I’d have earned a paltry £30.04 over those 3 years. If I had not moved it out of ING when the first introductory offer ended, I’d have earned £103.74 in total.

By chasing the higher rate and moving my money every year, I would end up with £1,239.03 in interest alone.

If you have more to save then your returns will be even better.

Banks are relying on you being complacent with your money in the longer term. You can beat them at their own game with just a few hours work each year. Is rate chasing worth the time and effort annually? In my opinion you’re mad not to. It’s free money for minimal work on your part.

Are you a chaser,or is it all just a waste of time in your view?

If you caught the first post in my ‘Dig Yourself Out of Debt‘ series last week, you will  know how important I think it is to know exactly where you stand in terms of your total immediate unsecured liabilities, and any cash reserves you may have. Now, before the uber-observant amongst us say anything – yes I realise that ideally if you have cash reserves you would pay down debt! Afterall, the interest you are probably earning on any positive balance from cash is likely to be dwarfed by the loan or credit card APR.

All that said however, you may like me be stuck with a front-loaded loan that offers no benefit of repaying early (other than to see the back of the loan) and no option of making over-payments. The only option in that scenario is to save up the lump sum necessary to pay off the balance (plus the penalty of one month’s worth of interest) if you want rid of it early – which I do.

At the end of my own ‘Know What You Owe’ fact-finding mission, I did some simple math and came up with my ‘net worth’ (net worth literally just means how wealthy you are), and it’s really easy to figure out.

Add up everything you owe (liabilities), and subtract that amount from any cash and savings you have. Whatever you are left with is your net worth. Simple!

I wanted to know how I was getting on with meeting my own debt freedom target (no later than New Years Day 2010) so I dug out copies of my loan account payments, credit card and bank statements, payslips and my budget spreadsheet, and made myself another spreadsheet with a few simple formulas thrown in to make things easier. Nothing too crazy required, just a couple of simple =SUM() calculations in certain cells to make the laborious leg work a little less laborious…:

The current month is highlighted in bold. Taking my other liabilities into account (the last £203 on my Barclaycard credit card), you can see my total liabilities at the moment are £9,156. But, I have £4,204.51 in cash in a combination of my current and savings accounts. Subtracting total liability from total liquidity, my networth is currently -£4,951.49. Basically, I owe almost five thousand pounds more than I have.

Scroll down a few months into the future however, and things improve. By November I’m only £220 shy of breaking even. In other words, I am currently set to become debt free by 20th December (A full 12 days ahead of target). If I make up that small shortfall, that could drop back to 20th November, 6 weeks earlier than planned. Assuming I don’t get made redundant between now and then and my overtime plans come off, I could knock a couple more weeks off that.

One word of caution though: remember that any entries beyond the present are projections. If you are projecting your own, remember that things often conspire against you; If my car blew up tomorrow, I would have to use some of my cash to fix it, pushing me away from the projected freedom date. Use it as a ready reckoner however and we can see that if all goes well using current known-good data (e.g. the data up until the highlighted line), I won’t be any later than my target, and that was the whole point of this exercise.

Are you currently in negative networth? Do you even know with any certainty? Kudos if you do. You’re not in the minority if you don’t though. Take the first step to digging yourself out of debt and know what you owe. Once you know, you can work out your own net worth and project a date to get into positive growth (or be incredibly unscientific about it and just make up a date like I did!).

If you’re already digging, how is your own target prediction holding up?Leave a reply in the comments below.